We hear a lot these days about “living off the grid”, but it wasn’t that long ago, a little more than a hundred years, that rural folks here in Hampton did just that. In this remarkable interview from Alison Davis’ “Hampton Remembers”, Helen Hammond Mathews, who was raised on the farm on Lewis Road, paints a pastoral picture of the natural year and all it provided, and the cultivation of one’s own land. We have glimpses of that time, in the seasons of wild strawberries and blueberries and concord grapes, in the cultivation of our own vegetables, in the harvesting of fiddleheads and walnuts and apples, and their preservation in cider and in sauce. And this month, when we turn the sap we collect from our maple trees into the liquid gold of syrup, and turn from winter to spring, the start of our growing year.
The spring meant so much to us those days, as it does today, but then we were more shut in and didn’t have all the fresh things to eat. We could hardly wait for the frost to go out of the ground to dig the parsnips and horseradish that had been there all winter. My mother loved the horseradish – and if you know horseradish you know it has a life of its own! She’d have to go outside to grate it because she cried so – and she’d grate and grate and weep and weep – with pleasure! And then she’d bring it in and put vinegar on it. Then the rhubarb was very important and came up very fast.
Some morning my father would put on his boots and get a basket and go off in the woods and gather cowslips. The woods were full of cowslips, in very wet places, that come up about the same time as skunk cabbage does. Cowslips have those lovely yellow flowers, you know, and in the book they’re marsh marigolds – but around here they were cowslips. Then the dandelions, they came along and they were so popular. All these greens were much sought after. My mother cooked them and put vinegar on them.
Everyone had their own cider vinegar. Everybody had cider – that was one of the things they didn’t do themselves, there was always a cider mill somewhere nearby, like at Jirah Hyde’s in Bigelow. We always had a barrel, or half-barrel perhaps, of vinegar. It just made itself, out of old cider. We generally had a vinegar “cruet” they call it, standing on the table – a fancy glass bottle with a stopper.
In spring they had sulfur and molasses, that was a yellow powder mixed up with molasses. And they had tonics in the spring, and sassafras tea. You see we needed something different in the spring — we had been eating salt meat all winter, lovely meat that we cured ourselves like dried beef and sausage we made – and we had lots of it, and our own potatoes – and lots of them – and the carrots and turnips and cabbage, for a certain length of time, and always apples! They did so much with apples, all kinds of desserts. And so in the spring fresh things meant a great deal to us.
The summer – we know how wonderful the summer was, and how hard they worked, with all the wonderful berries and fruits and vegetables. In that era they were beginning to have canning jars, that old-fashioned kind with the screw top that you never could open, before Mason jars. Before that they just packed their things in crocks without much cover.
They still dried apples. In our house there was a contraption, a tin thing, very bulky, that set on the wood stove, as big as the stove, and lots of little trays or shelves through it. They laid cut apples on those shelves and the apples dried without making them too dry. Otherwise they had to lay them out in the sun in the yard to dry. This was the modern way. And of course they dried the corn, and all the old houses you go into have the hooks in the ceilings where they hung such things to dry.
And then we had honey in the fall. Not everybody had their own bees but we heard stories about going out hunting for the wild honey in the trees. I remember hearing neighbors telling how they found a “bee tree”. But we had our own honey because my aunt, Miss Eleanor Sharpe, was a bee woman. She lived with us and she had her own bee outfit – hives and bees wax you prepared — and she had an outfit to wear that was really something, that she put on to keep from getting stung – a hat with a big veil and gloves. She had the pound-box frames that came flattened and you had to put them together. And you had the honeycomb cut in little squares and it had to be melted on the edges hot enough to stick in the frames for the bees to start building on. They usually filled them solid full, but sometimes the squares in the corners would be a bit empty. We had honey and we had biscuits – and they were good!
In the fall the country was absolutely covered with wild grapes. You could go anywhere and get a big, sweet kind of grape, purple, bigger and coarser than any you see today but with a very good flavor, oh so many of them around! And in that connection let me say one nice thing – we never saw poison ivy. We went through the woods and never saw any. It doesn’t seem possible now but when I was a little girl there was just one big bunch of it on the wall beside the road on the way to school and we watched it. If someone had only cut that down it would have done the neighborhood a whole lot of good.
But the big thing to do in the fall was to get bayberries to make soap. We gathered the berries and boiled the gook off them and my aunt made soap – that was better than the plain soap because it was scented. Most people made their own yellow laundry soap but if they didn’t cut it at just the right time the edges were all rough, which wasn’t pleasant.
Many people had cranberry bogs in all the swampland we had those days. It was pretty wet and boggy to pick them but we loved to go picking. They varied in size, not sorted like the ones we buy today – they petered out to nothing on the end of the stalk. There are still a few cranberries growing in Hampton even today.
There were so many nuts in those days. Chestnuts, we couldn’t wait for the chestnuts! We had to have a frost so the outside shell would pop open. And then we had hickory nuts – now we’d call them walnuts – and we had shagbark nuts that grew on that tall rather slender tree with the shaggy bark that’s falling off. We had butternuts, and butternuts are supreme! Very rich, make very nice cake!
In the garden we always grew sage and we had caraway seeds – what is home without caraway cookies! And there was always a great deal of catnip around.
We had our own meat on the farm, we had a flock of sheep and of course the dairy cattle, and of course we had pigs – or how would we get our hams and our sausages and all that sort of thing? They cured their own hams those days, and their own dried beef and salt pork. We had creamed salt pork. It sounds awful but it was so good. They sliced it, cooked it a little and threw out the water to get out the salt and halfway fried it and then added a nice cream sauce. They would always kill an old hen and we had eggs as long as they kept laying. We had our own milk and cream and butter.
And cheese – not many made cheese but my mother made cheese. She had to have a lot of fresh milk and she put it in a big tub made of tin. She put the rennet into it at the beginning. Then she let it stand and it curdled or set, like custard, and then she cut that up a little bit so it would be easier to handle and the idea was that she must have all the wetness, the drippings out of the cheese and have just the custard part left. So it was put in a cheese box of 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 pounds and in a cheesecloth and put in big presses that would do 2, 3, 4 cheeses at a time. Each press had a cover screwed down which pressed out the whey and after a few more days no more whey came out but my mother looked at the cheese each day and covered it with oil to keep it from getting too dry right on top. She trimmed the curd that squeezed out around the edges (and I was always standing with my mouth open waiting for a little bite), it took probably a matter of two or three months of her pressing it a little every day to get all the moisture out of it. When it was done she sold the cheese.
Helen Hammond Mathews